Mead, often referred to as “honey wine,” is celebrated as the oldest alcoholic beverage known to humankind, while cider, a fermented apple beverage, was a staple in colonial America. Historically, the contributions of Black Americans to the production of these fermented drinks have often been overlooked or unacknowledged. Today, a new generation of Black-owned meaderies and cideries across the United States is reclaiming this legacy, infusing ancient traditions with contemporary innovation and diverse cultural expressions. These entrepreneurs are not only crafting unique products but are also dedicated to increasing Black representation and economic empowerment within the broader craft beverage industry.
Historical Roots and Enduring Contributions
The history of Black involvement in cidermaking in America dates back centuries. Enslaved African Americans played crucial roles in the agricultural and beverage production systems of early America. For instance, historical records from Monticello reveal the instrumental contributions of enslaved cidermakers such as Jupiter Evans and George Granger, who were highly trusted with the estate’s annual cider production. In 18th-century Connecticut, Nero Hawley, an enslaved individual, actively worked in and contributed to the operations of a cider mill. These historical figures underscore a long, often unwritten, legacy of Black expertise and labor in the production of fermented beverages.
Beyond American plantations, the traditions of fermenting various ingredients are deeply rooted in African and Caribbean cultures. Many contemporary Black mead and cider makers draw inspiration from these ancestral practices. Eric Depradine, co-founder of Zydeco Meadery, for example, credits his Trinidadian grandmother, Ena Depradine, with teaching him about fermented beverages, particularly a home-brewed hibiscus drink known as sorrel in the Caribbean. This cultural connection is evident in Zydeco Meadery’s signature Carnival Rose hibiscus mead, which serves as a cultural bridge across the African and Caribbean diaspora.
Pioneering Producers and Their Craft
The landscape of Black-owned mead and cider production is growing, with several notable establishments making their mark:
- D.O.P.E. Cider House and Winery (Youngstown, Ohio): Founded by Hannah Ferguson, D.O.P.E. (Dwelling On Positive Energy) Cider House and Winery opened its doors as Ohio’s first Black, female-owned cidery. Ferguson, a first-generation winemaker, is driven by a passion to diversify the craft beverage community, noting that less than 1% of ownership in breweries, cideries, and the wine and spirits industry is Black-owned. The establishment offers handcrafted hard ciders and wines, contributing a fresh perspective to the Youngstown area.
- Zydeco Meadery (Massachusetts, formerly Kansas): Co-founded by Eric and DeAundra Depradine, Zydeco Meadery began its journey in Wamego, Kansas, operating from 2020 to 2023 before relocating to North Attleborough, Massachusetts. The meadery celebrates a fusion of Caribbean, New England, and South Louisiana identities, crafting meads that utilize regional honeys. Their products, such as Sunflower Delight, Creole Queen, and Ozark Beauty meads (as of 2021), pay homage to American regional honey. Eric Depradine is dedicated to challenging the common misconception that people of African descent are not associated with the production of mead, wine, and distilled alcohol.
- Detroit Farm and Cider (Detroit, Michigan): Established in October 2020 by Detroit native Leandra King, Detroit Farm and Cider became the city’s first Black-owned cider mill and farm, and the first in Wayne County. King’s venture is deeply rooted in her personal connection to farming as a source of healing and peace. The farm features over 100 organically treated fruit trees and offers a community space for relaxation and various programs aimed at youth mental wellness.
- Black's Fairy Meadery LLC (West Columbia, Texas): Founded in October 2017, Black's Fairy Meadery is owned and managed by Calvin Greene II and Terica Groves. This meadery specializes in fruity and floral beverages, created by fermenting honey with water and yeast, often steeped with organic fruits and natural flavorings. Calvin Greene II, an expert in environmental toxicology, oversees production according to federal, state, and organic guidelines, while Terica Groves handles communications and customer service.
- Meulanated Meadery (Albany, New York): This Black-owned meadery highlights deep roots in Louisiana and Mississippi, with a mission to celebrate heritage and promote cultural pride through its unique beverages.
- Black Fire Winery & Brewery (Tecumseh, Michigan): Owned by Michael Wells, Black Fire Winery & Brewery, initially a winery, expanded its offerings to include craft beer and cider the year after its 2016 opening. Wells, a former firefighter, cultivated his winemaking skills over decades, eventually becoming the first African-American owner of a vineyard in southeast Michigan. The establishment now offers a variety of wines, eight beers, and eight ciders.
- Zafa Wines (Isle La Motte, Vermont): Founded by Krista Scruggs, Zafa Wines is notable for its natural blends, using hybrid grapes, apples, and other fruits, including maple syrup, to produce sparkling wines and ciders with Vermont influences. Scruggs is also recognized as the 18th Black farmer in Vermont to own land.
Cultural Infusion and Entrepreneurial Spirit
These Black-owned meaderies and cideries are more than just businesses; they are cultural touchstones and engines for economic empowerment. Founders like Hannah Ferguson of D.O.P.E. Cider House and Winery are actively working to push Black ownership beyond the current less than 1% statistic in the craft beverage industry. Eric Depradine of Zydeco Meadery consciously uses his platform to highlight the historical and ongoing contributions of people of African descent to alcohol production. Many of these entrepreneurs are first-generation makers, driven by a desire to create a legacy and pass on knowledge within their families and communities.
The flavors and stories behind these brands often reflect a rich tapestry of personal history, regional influences, and diasporic connections, creating beverages that are both innovative and deeply meaningful. From the use of specific honeys and fruits to the incorporation of traditional celebratory drinks, their products offer unique tasting experiences rooted in cultural authenticity.
Challenges and the Path Forward
Despite the growth in Black entrepreneurship in the beverage sector, significant challenges remain. The cost of entry into the mead and cider industry, like other alcohol sectors, can be high, and securing financial investment is often difficult. However, the increasing visibility and success of Black-owned brands are helping to pave the way for future generations. Through dedication to quality, community engagement, and cultural storytelling, these pioneers are redefining the landscape of American mead and cider, fostering greater diversity and inclusion in an industry where it is much needed.
The work of these producers extends beyond the bottle, contributing to economic development, challenging stereotypes, and preserving cultural heritage. As the craft beverage movement continues to evolve, Black-owned meaderies and cideries are poised to become an increasingly vital and celebrated part of its future.